To the north of Nieuwoudtville lies Calvinia , Brandvlei, Williston, Carnavon, Van Wyksvlei, Bushmanland, Kenhardt, Keimoes, the Orange River, Kakamas, Upington, Augrabies, Onseepkans, Pofadder, Pella, Charlies Pass, Goodhouse and the many other places hugging the tortuous route of the Orange River, South Africa's River Jordan, to the sea? These are all places that should be visited by an entrepid traveller and Nieuwoudtville is the gateway to them. Refer to the map above.
But, if you constantly crave ice water, if you cannot tolerate extremes of heat and cold, if you have an aversion to dusty roads and sun drenched landscapes, and an even greater aversion to silence, space and fresh air, don't even think of phoning me to assist you in your travels.
Recently I travelled from Brandvlei (you find it!) to the saltpans in the heart of Bushmanland, a distance of 160kms. I saw no vehicles and no living soul, only the many sheep that crossed my path. The silence was awesome and looking into the distance you could actually see tomorrow approaching. It had been a good year and as far as the eye could see the wind was weaving its way across the grass plains, a distinctive feature of Bushmanland. I know from experience that Bushmanland can also suffer the fiercest droughts and can appear, in places, like the cratered surface of the moon.
When the Korean War broke out in 1952, it was here in Bushmanland that some farmers became millionaires overnight, when the fear of an atomic holocaust resulted in the price of £1 for a pound of wool!
South Africa annually produces approximately 800 000 tons of salt. This is the one commodity which is on each and every South African table. Bushmanland is one of the bigger producers of salt. In this most arid part of South Africa,the water in places lies approximately 2 meters below the surface of some of the massive pans that dominate the topography of Bushmanland. It is on these pans that the salt is produced.
One of these pans, named Verneukpan, approximately 100 km to the west of Brandvlei, is where in 1929 Donald Campbell made his attempt on the world land speed record. The pan can be visited and there is a guesthouse in the vicinity. Ask me.
Further to the west of Verneukpan, about 40 km from Van Wyksvlei (find it!), are four excellent petroglyph sites, the rock art etchings of the Bushman people.
Van Wyksvlei is even smaller than Nieuwoudtville, and that is saying something. In this little hamlet in the middle of the Karoo, you can buy the best Springbok biltong in South Africa. In fact, much of the biltong that you buy at the Newlands Rugby Stadium in Cape Town comes from Van Wyksvlei! You cannot contest this as I have met the butcher who supplies these sporting events. If you require Springbok biltong, turn up the butcher in the Northern Cape telephone directory.
Van Wyksvlei is a major destination for anyone wishing to hunt Springbok in winter. Call me and I will arrange an unforgettable Springbok Shoot, and a bonus is some of the finest hospitality to be had anywhere in the world.
To the southeast of Van Wyksvlei lies Williston. This town was graced with the most skilled tombstone stonemason in South Africa. His tombstones are works of art. I've seen them! In the graveyards next to the ruins of homesteads abandoned decades ago these tombstones can be seen, a truly moving experience. There are friendly guides at Williston who will spend time with you travelling the district showing you the tombstones and recounting the lore and the history of this very old town.
And now to Carnarvon. Are you a whiskey drinker? If you are, make a B-line for the hotel at Carnarvon as this hostelry boasts one of the finest collections of whiskey in South Africa and, would you believe, an authentic 1950's Juke Box in pristine condition – IT ACTUALLY PLAYS! Rather incongruous, sipping fine whiskey in a meat-based culture to the music of Elvis et al.
For the tourist travelling southwards from Gauteng, Natal or Free State, many will pass through Carnarvon. Make it a destination, walk the town in the late afternoon and view the lovely old Edwardian and Victorian houses. The locals will enlighten you on the many other things which can be seen in the area, but remember like Rip Van Winkel you must move into a different mode. If you're in a hurry you will miss it all. |
